We’re comparing two popular Bauhaus-inspired watches: the multiple award-winning NOMOS Tangente and the Max Bill by Junghans. But first, let’s explain Bauhaus design and how these watches relate to this modernist style.
In the early 1900s, an art school called the “Staatliches Bauhaus,” or more commonly known as the “Bauhaus,” was active in Germany. The name literally translates to “building house,” and it was founded in 1919 with a holistic approach to art, combining craftsmanship and fine art. The Bauhaus style went on to become one of the most influential styles in modern design, architecture, and art. The school was forced to relocate to Berlin in 1932 and was closed one year later under pressure from the Nazi regime. However, thanks to teachers and former students, Bauhaus concepts spread throughout the West, including the United States.
One prominent student of the Bauhaus school was Max Bill. Originally from Switzerland, he became a well-known architect, painter, sculptor, publicist, and industrial designer. Among his portfolio of creations are the watches he designed for Junghans in the mid-1960s. Today, his designs are preserved in the Max Bill by Junghans collection.
NOMOS, in turn, has the Tangente model, which is often described as a Bauhaus watch. According to the brand, this isn’t entirely correct, but it is not completely incorrect either. NOMOS is a member of the Deutsche Werkbund (German Association of Craftsmen) that historically helped shape ideas for the Bauhaus. Today, the organization counts many architectural firms, galleries, and well-known brands among its members.
NOMOS Tangente: Bauhaus-Inspired Design
The Tangente by NOMOS is available in several variations and sizes, all of which are very similar in terms of design. The models range in size from 33 to 38 mm, and come in steel with sapphire crystals. The Tangente is also available with an in-house manual or automatic movement (Tangomat) and with or without a date display. Most feature a display case back. There isn’t much difference in the layout of the dials, and all models have a small second at the 6 o’clock position. Most watches have a refined, clean, and symmetrical look.
Watches with a power reserve indicator feature the NOMOS logo on the left side of the dial, with the indicator located just below and in-between 12 and 1 o’clock. The date window is located at the bottom of the dial at 6. Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan, a durable and comfortable type of leather, is primarily used for the straps. Prices on Chrono24 range from about $1,000 to round $3,300 – quite good value for the money considering you get a watch that is almost entirely produced in-house.
An update to the classic: the NOMOS Tangente Neomatik
Along with the classic model described above, Tangente fans can also buy Tangente Neomatik with larger diameters – up to 42 mm for the Neomatik Sport models – powered by the Neomatik caliber DUW 6101. Not only is this movement exceptionally thin, it also moves the date display to the outermost ring of the dial, a rarity for large watches. This makes the dial not only eye-catching, but also extremely legible. Prices for the Tangente Neomatik range from $1,800 to $3,500, depending on the model and condition.
Junghans Max Bill: Straight from the 1960s
Unlike the NOMOS Tangente, the Max Bill by Junghans is also available as a quartz watch, which is beyond the scope of our article. Depending on the variant, the case measures 34 mm (hand-wound), 38 mm (automatic), or 40 mm (Chronoscope). The cases are crafted from steel and some come with a gold-like PVD finish. All models feature Plexiglass crystals. Dials are available in different prints with strong contrasting accents.
While NOMOS makes its own movements, Junghans relies on ETA base movements for their watches. This makes the timepieces a bit more friendly on the wallet. Starting at under $700 for the 34-mm manual version and climbing to around $2,500 for the Chronoscope on a Milanese bracelet, prices are not bad considering the history and quality of the model.
So, we clearly have two Bauhaus-inspired designs, but how do they compare? In the end, choosing one may be simply a matter of taste. Both offer excellent prices and quality, and are made in Germany, home of the original Bauhaus. If you’re considering one of these models, it may come down to how much you value the in-house movement versus the richer history of Junghans. Whichever you choose, you’ll end up with a fantastic watch designed in one of the most influential styles in modern history.
