Complicated watches hold a special place in the world of mechanical timepieces. While the word “complication” often has a negative connotation, in horology, it refers to a watch’s ability to perform extraordinary functions. These added features must be integrated into the movement, making them more complex to create—hence the term “complication.”
Technically, even a simple date window is considered a complication. However, things get truly fascinating—and significantly more intricate—when we look at minute repeaters, annual calendars, or perpetual calendars. A perpetual calendar watch displays the time, day, date, month, and moon phases, with some models even adding leap year and week indicators. What makes the perpetual calendar extra special is that it’s “programmed” to follow the Gregorian calendar, automatically adjusting for months with fewer than 31 days.
Most modern perpetual calendars function without manual correction until the year 2199. As you can imagine, these movements are incredibly complex—and they come at a price. We’ve selected some of the best perpetual calendars from various brands at different price points that beautifully illustrate what makes these watches so special.
1. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar
When the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar was introduced in 2021, it became the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar watch. The timepiece features a 40mm titanium case that is just 5.8mm thick. The designers achieved this ultra-slim profile by cleverly arranging the displays in an all-analog format. The upper half of the sandblasted dial features a large retrograde date display, with the day and month indicators positioned below. At the bottom, you’ll find the leap year indicator. Powering this technical marvel is the automatic micro-rotor Caliber BVL 305, a groundbreaking movement that remains just as impressive today as when it was first unveiled.
2. Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar
The Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar is one of the most affordable perpetual calendar watches on the market. With its integrated bracelet, this 41mm modern sports watch provides the perfect canvas for incorporating such a complex function. The watch features four sub-dials: the date at 3 o’clock, the moon phase at 6 o’clock, the day at 9 o’clock, and the month and leap year at 12 o’clock. The perpetual calendar module for the Caliber FC-775 was developed in-house, making this watch—priced under EUR 10,000—an even more remarkable value.
3. MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO
MB&F, the brainchild of Max Büsser, is known for crafting wrist-worn works of art that blend technical brilliance with avant-garde design. The Legacy Machine collection offers a slightly more conventional approach—but only slightly. The Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is a stunning creation featuring a 44mm zirconium case and a mesmerizing open-worked dial. Underneath the heavily domed sapphire crystal, you can admire the unique caliber developed in collaboration with Irish independent watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. This is one of the most innovative perpetual calendars available today.
4. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar
Vacheron Constantin, one of the classical Swiss high-end brands, offers a variety of perpetual calendars. We love the elegance of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, available in pink or white gold. This modern sports watch features a 41.5mm case that is just 8.1mm thick, complemented by a beautifully integrated bracelet. The dial layout is similar to the Frederique Constant, with the date at 3 o’clock, the moon phase at 6 o’clock, the day at 9 o’clock, and the month and leap year at 12 o’clock. Despite the wealth of information, the dial remains perfectly balanced and visually appealing.
5. Patek Philippe 5270
Patek Philippe is synonymous with exquisite perpetual calendars. We selected the stunning reference 5270 from the brand’s Grand Complications collection. This 41mm timepiece epitomizes the classic perpetual calendar style that Patek Philippe has mastered. The watch also includes a chronograph function, making it even more complex. The day and month are displayed at 12 o’clock, while the date and moon phase are combined in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The remaining sub-dials house the chronograph functions, creating a truly sophisticated timepiece.
6. IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
With the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, IWC has taken the perpetual calendar to an entirely new level. This watch is powered by an in-house movement featuring a calendar complication that requires no manual correction until the year 3999. Even more astonishing, the moon phase indicator only needs an adjustment after 45 million years. The watch itself is visually striking, with a 44mm platinum case and a sapphire dial with sapphire sub-dials. Despite the wealth of information displayed, the design ensures excellent legibility. The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar is truly a one-of-a-kind masterpiece.
7. H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar takes a minimalist approach to this complex function. The sleek dial features only a date window at 4 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 10 o’clock. Additionally, four centrally mounted hands indicate the hours, minutes, running seconds, and months. Since there are no month markers on the dial, reading it is a bit abstract. The leap year indicator is located on the reverse side of the watch, within the beautifully crafted hand-wound HMC 812 manufacture caliber. This is a unique and conceptual take on the perpetual calendar.
8. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
No list of perpetual calendars would be complete without the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. Over the years, the brand has released numerous stunning versions, including a white gold model with a blue dial for John Mayer and a brown open-worked edition for Travis Scott. One standout model is the Ultra-Thin version, featuring a titanium case that weighs just 75 grams and measures only 6.2mm thick. The in-house self-winding caliber 5133, at just 2.9mm thick, makes this incredible feat of engineering possible.
9. Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327
Breguet is renowned for crafting elegant timepieces with traditional complications. The Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 boasts a 39mm rose gold case and a beautifully executed silver guilloché dial. Large indicators for the date and month take center stage, while smaller hands display the leap year and day of the week. A moon phase sits elegantly between 2 and 3 o’clock, resulting in a refined and sophisticated perpetual calendar.
10. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar
Our final pick is the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, an innovative take on this complication. The iconic Lange 1 design—with its off-center time display and large date window—remains intact, with a clever peripheral date wheel encircling the dial. The minimalist day display sits on the left, the moon phase below, and a small leap year indicator at 6 o’clock. The dial is beautifully balanced, ensuring easy readability of all the perpetual calendar functions.
This concludes our list of ten remarkable perpetual calendar watches—each one a testament to the art and engineering of fine watchmaking.
