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Vacheron Constantin RARE OCTAGON  DIAMOND SET ROMAN NUMERALS...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin RARE OCTAGON DIAMOND SET ROMAN NUMERALS...
Rs. 362,417
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Rolex 18K RG/SS Datejust Turn-O-Graph Silver Dial - w/ Rolex Box
TOP
Rolex 18K RG/SS Datejust Turn-O-Graph Silver Dial - w/ Rolex Box
Rs. 503,021
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
149
US
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rare Vintage Jumbo Memovox E853 NOS Box & Papers
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rare Vintage Jumbo Memovox E853 NOS Box & Papers
Rs. 644,365
Free shipping
Seller
VintageCaliber GmbH
37
DE
Cartier Ballon Bleu 18K White Gold Automatic Chronograph
TOP
Cartier Ballon Bleu 18K White Gold Automatic Chronograph
Rs. 1,342,217
Free shipping
Seller
Loucri Jewelers
55
US
Longines 1920s Longines platinum diamond enamel cameo pendant...
TOP
Longines 1920s Longines platinum diamond enamel cameo pendant...
Rs. 184,564
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Corum Admiral´s Cup Regatta 18k Rose Gold
TOP
Corum Admiral´s Cup Regatta 18k Rose Gold
Rs. 1,049,158
Seller
CANTELI JOYEROS SL
 
ES
Glashütte Original PanomaticLunar White Gold model # 900231140...
TOP
Glashütte Original PanomaticLunar White Gold model # 900231140...
Rs. 737,920
Seller
AbsolutelyROLEX!
 
CA
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297 Titane
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297 Titane
Rs. 4,832,734
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Cvstos Eagle of Russia 'Proud to be Russian'(Limited )
TOP
Cvstos Eagle of Russia 'Proud to be Russian'(Limited )
Rs. 1,230,902
Free shipping
Seller
Istock LTD
57
LV
Patek Philippe Nautilus
TOP
Patek Philippe Nautilus
Rs. 1,639,825
Seller
chronostars
 
AT
Rolex Yacht-Master Chocolate Dial
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master Chocolate Dial
Rs. 763,424
Seller
Harley's Time LLC
46
US
Girard Perregaux Heritage Place Girardet
TOP
Girard Perregaux Heritage Place Girardet
Rs. 1,610,912
Seller
Juwelier Colman
 
BE
Vacheron Constantin Malte Platinum Tourbillon
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Malte Platinum Tourbillon
Rs. 4,355,710
Seller
Universal Time Company of NY, Inc.
21
US
Breitling Chronomat 44mm B01 Manufaktur Stahl-/Roségold MOP...
TOP
Breitling Chronomat 44mm B01 Manufaktur Stahl-/Roségold MOP...
Rs. 611,238
Seller
Uhrenkapital
270
DE
Oris BC3 Advanced day date
TOP
Oris BC3 Advanced day date
Rs. 71,458
Seller
CANTELI JOYEROS SL
 
ES
Panerai Luminor 1950 GMT 10 Days Ceramica
TOP
Panerai Luminor 1950 GMT 10 Days Ceramica
Rs. 900,458
Seller
Turelojya SL
162
ES
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297
Rs. 5,493,622
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Vacheron Constantin ASYMMETRICAL 1972 PRESTIGE DE LA FRANCE  #...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin ASYMMETRICAL 1972 PRESTIGE DE LA FRANCE #...
Rs. 2,516,782
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Breguet Marine 18k Yellow Gold  Automatic 26mm Ladies Diamond...
TOP
Breguet Marine 18k Yellow Gold Automatic 26mm Ladies Diamond...
Rs. 942,489
Seller
WT Time Pieces
33
UK
TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 Steve McQueen
TOP
TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 Steve McQueen
Rs. 413,423
Seller
Harley's Time LLC
46
US
Arnold & Son GMT Timekeeper II
Arnold & Son GMT Timekeeper II
Rs. 125,000
Seller
Private Seller
IN
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 42 mm Watch 311.33.42.30.01.001
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 42 mm Watch 311.33.42.30.01.001
Rs. 248,454
Free shipping
Seller
Montauk Group Ltd
49
CH
U-Boat U-1942 Very Limited Edition special No
TOP
U-Boat U-1942 Very Limited Edition special No
Rs. 1,941,355
Seller
Trendpartners
11
NL
Rolex Yacht-Master II Whitegold 116689
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master II Whitegold 116689
Rs. 1,854,614
Seller
Filipucci Juweliers
378
NL
Hublot Unico Red Sapphire
TOP
Hublot Unico Red Sapphire
Rs. 4,361,853
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
360
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte-Carlo La Sirène Diamant
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte-Carlo La Sirène Diamant
Rs. 7,823,248
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Cartier 1940s CARTIER TRIPLE CALENDAR EUROPEAN WATCH COMPANY...
TOP
Cartier 1940s CARTIER TRIPLE CALENDAR EUROPEAN WATCH COMPANY...
Rs. 1,879,197
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Breitling Navitimer Twin Sixty 4 Circles Automatic Chronograph
TOP
Breitling Navitimer Twin Sixty 4 Circles Automatic Chronograph
Rs. 263,942
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
57
NL
IWC Big Pilot Bronze
TOP
IWC Big Pilot Bronze
Rs. 864,095
Seller
Harley's Time LLC
46
US
Omega Rare Vintage Omega Trench Watch 1920's - Excellent...
Omega Rare Vintage Omega Trench Watch 1920's - Excellent...
Rs. 45,000
Seller
Private Seller
IN
Ulysse Nardin Freak Cruiser Tourbillon 2056-131 Rose Gold 45mm
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Freak Cruiser Tourbillon 2056-131 Rose Gold 45mm
Rs. 3,312,716
Seller
Taleda
328
CH
Patek Philippe 5270G 018
Patek Philippe 5270G 018
Rs. 8,260,258
Seller
Grandmaster Communications GmbH
 
AT
Omega Seamaster Manual Winding Unisex Steel C. 1956 Vintage Watch
Omega Seamaster Manual Winding Unisex Steel C. 1956 Vintage Watch
Rs. 40,076
Seller
Great Swiss Watches
IN
A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual English dial
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual English dial
Rs. 4,287,503
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
360
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Admirale Chronographe Flyback Classique
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Admirale Chronographe Flyback Classique
Rs. 2,354,409
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Vacheron Constantin MASSIVE VACHERON & CONSTANTIN REPEATING...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin MASSIVE VACHERON & CONSTANTIN REPEATING...
Rs. 1,677,855
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Panerai Vintage 1998 - GMT Dual Time Automatic Cal. OP VIII
TOP
Panerai Vintage 1998 - GMT Dual Time Automatic Cal. OP VIII
Rs. 475,012
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
57
NL
Rolex Datejust Rose Gold MOP Diamonds
TOP
Rolex Datejust Rose Gold MOP Diamonds
Rs. 984,901
Seller
Harley's Time LLC
46
US
Tissot Visodate
Tissot Visodate
Rs. 22,000
Seller
Private Seller
IN
Cartier Pasha Flying Tourbillon Skeleton W3030021 White Gold 42mm
TOP
Cartier Pasha Flying Tourbillon Skeleton W3030021 White Gold 42mm
Rs. 6,763,461
Seller
Taleda
328
CH
JeanRichard Paramount Pack 3 watches
TOP
JeanRichard Paramount Pack 3 watches
Rs. 1,548,953
Seller
Fernando Monge SA
98
ES
Hamilton Pan Europ
TOP
Hamilton Pan Europ
Rs. 66,479
Seller
WatchNation Limited
45
UK
Blancpain Quantieme Perpetuel 8 Jours
TOP
Blancpain Quantieme Perpetuel 8 Jours
Rs. 3,083,863
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
360
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte-Carlo Homme
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte-Carlo Homme
Rs. 1,503,518
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Cartier vintage1940S DIAMOND SET PLATINUM18KT YG TRIPLE TWIST...
TOP
Cartier vintage1940S DIAMOND SET PLATINUM18KT YG TRIPLE TWIST...
Rs. 523,491
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1R-001
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1R-001
Rs. 4,125,450
Seller
UK Time Legend
 
UK
Breitling Navitimer - Chronograph Automatic Two Tone White Dial
TOP
Breitling Navitimer - Chronograph Automatic Two Tone White Dial
Rs. 260,224
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
57
NL
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
Rs. 1,247,183
Seller
Private Seller
IN
Audemars Piguet Edward Piguet Tradition D'excellence Tourbilli...
TOP
Audemars Piguet Edward Piguet Tradition D'excellence Tourbilli...
Rs. 11,042,386
Seller
Taleda
328
CH
Breguet Classique Automatico Brillantes
TOP
Breguet Classique Automatico Brillantes
Rs. 1,152,421
Seller
Fernando Monge SA
98
ES
Richard Mille 52-01 Asia Limited Edition limited 6pc
TOP
Richard Mille 52-01 Asia Limited Edition limited 6pc
Price on request
Seller
Easetimehk
 
HK
Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT
TOP
Hublot Big Bang Unico GMT
Rs. 1,406,863
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
360
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Poinçon de Genève Saphir
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Poinçon de Genève Saphir
Rs. 2,015,705
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Cartier 1912 ART DECO PLATINUM CHAIN ENAMEL PENDANT WATCH
TOP
Cartier 1912 ART DECO PLATINUM CHAIN ENAMEL PENDANT WATCH
Rs. 563,759
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date
TOP
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date
Rs. 119,002
Seller
WatchNation Limited
45
UK
Russian Made Winding Date Roll Gold Steel Watch
Russian Made Winding Date Roll Gold Steel Watch
Rs. 14,050
Seller
Great Swiss Watches
IN
Longines Master Collection
Longines Master Collection
Rs. 72,565
Seller
Private Seller
IN
Corum Golden Bridge 313.150.55/0001 Fn02 Rose Gold Leather 37mm
TOP
Corum Golden Bridge 313.150.55/0001 Fn02 Rose Gold Leather 37mm
Rs. 1,932,418
Seller
Taleda
328
CH
Rolex Daytona 116500 Stainless Steel Ceramic Bezel White Dial
Rolex Daytona 116500 Stainless Steel Ceramic Bezel White Dial
Rs. 1,461,117
Seller
UK Time Legend
 
UK
Richard Mille RM35-02 RED TPT Rafael Nadal factory diamond top
TOP
Richard Mille RM35-02 RED TPT Rafael Nadal factory diamond top
Rs. 13,516,395
Seller
Easetimehk
 
HK
IWC Big Pilot’s Annual Calendar  "Antoine De Saint Exupery"
TOP
IWC Big Pilot’s Annual Calendar "Antoine De Saint Exupery"
Rs. 2,081,793
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
360
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1298
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1298
Rs. 5,774,498
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Vacheron Constantin Very Rare 1970s  Lozenge Pave Diamond Dial...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Very Rare 1970s Lozenge Pave Diamond Dial...
Rs. 4,530,208
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
9
US
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Factory Champagne Diamond Dial
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Factory Champagne Diamond Dial
Rs. 942,489
Seller
Emron Watches
 
UK
HMT Military Winding Black Radium Half Roman Steel Mens Watch
HMT Military Winding Black Radium Half Roman Steel Mens Watch
Rs. 9,335
Seller
Great Swiss Watches
IN
  • 30
  • 60
  • 120

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.

Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.
However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.
Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.

Buying Advice

Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.
Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.

Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.
Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.
The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.

Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.
A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.
The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.
Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.
Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.
Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.
Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.