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Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164A-001 New Steel 40.8mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time
Price on request
Professional dealer
 
AU
Patek Philippe Calatrava 7200/50G-010 Very good White gold 34mm
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava New York 2017 Edition 7200/50g-010...
Rs. 2,695,361
Professional dealer
318
US
Rolex Daytona 116595RBOW New Rose gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Daytona Rainbow Bespoke
Price on request
Professional dealer
 
AU
Ball Trainmaster NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH New Rose gold 39.5mm Automatic
TOP
Ball NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH Trainmaster 18k Rose Gold Automatic...
Rs. 382,809
Professional dealer
445
US
Orient Bambino FAC00009W0 Unworn Steel 40.5mm Automatic India, CHENNAI
Orient Bambino
Rs. 10,683
Private Seller
IN
TAG Heuer Connected SBF8A8001 Very good Titanium 45mm Automatic India, Aquem, Margao
TAG Heuer connected
Rs. 69,000
Private Seller
IN
Rado Diastar 764.0413.3 Very good Tungsten Automatic India, Navi Mumbai
Rado Diastar
Rs. 30,000
Private Seller
IN
Oris Divers Sixty Five 01 733 7707 4355-07 8 20 17 Very good Steel Automatic India, Navi Mumbai
Oris Divers Sixty Five
Rs. 75,000
Private Seller
IN
Franck Muller Casablanca 7880 Very good Rose gold 47mm Automatic
TOP
Franck Muller Casablanca Chronographe 7880 18k pink gold
Rs. 1,502,075
Professional dealer
15
MC
Titus 7055B Very good 34mm Manual winding India, Pune
Titus Shock protected 17 jewels
Rs. 7,500
Private Seller
IN
Rolex Day-Date 36 18238 Good Yellow gold Automatic India, Mumbai
Rolex Day-Date 36
Rs. 1,072,080
Private Seller
IN
Seiko 5 7s36-0030 Very good 40mm Automatic India, Agashi
Seiko 5
Rs. 12,000
Private Seller
IN
Seiko 5 6309-8970 Good Steel 36mm Automatic India, Mumbai
Seiko 5 Automatic watch beautiful black dial with 24hrs...
Rs. 11,410
Private Seller
IN
Rolex Datejust 116234 Very good Steel Automatic India, Navi Mumbai
Rolex Datejust 36mm
Rs. 600,000
Private Seller
IN
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 116000 Unworn Steel 36mm Automatic India, New Delhi
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36
Rs. 570,000
Private Seller
IN
Oris Aquis Date 01 733 7730 4175-Set Very good Steel 43.5mm Automatic India, Mumbai
Oris Aquis Lake Baikal Limited Edition
Rs. 120,000
Private Seller
IN
Favre-Leuba 40352 Good 34mm Manual winding India, Pune
Favre-Leuba Sub seconds dial 17 Jewels Shockproof
Rs. 9,000
Private Seller
IN
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 240.8.14 Unworn Steel 29mm Manual winding India, Kolkata
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 8 Days
Rs. 444,147
Private Seller
IN
IWC Portuguese Automatic IW500710 Unworn Automatic India, New Delhi
IWC Portuguesier 7 Days
Rs. 800,000
Private Seller
IN
Rolex Datejust 116233 Very good Gold/Steel 36mm Automatic India, delhi
Rolex Datejust
Rs. 723,916
Private Seller
IN
Rolex Submariner Date 126613LN Very good Gold/Steel Automatic India, Navi Mumbai
Rolex Submariner Date
Rs. 1,400,000
Private Seller
IN
Orient G-49672-4C-PT Very good Steel 43mm Automatic India, Thane
Orient Perpetual Calender
Rs. 19,144
Private Seller
IN
Rado Diastar 648.0413.3 Very good Gold/Steel Automatic India, Chennai
Rado Original The Original Automatic Diastar
Rs. 45,000
Private Seller
IN
Graham Chronofighter 2OVBV Very good Steel 48mm Automatic India, New delhi
Graham Chronofighter
Rs. 196,896
Private Seller
IN
Omega Seamaster 135.011 Very good Steel 34.5mm Manual winding India, Mumbai
Omega Seamaster 600
Rs. 76,067
Private Seller
IN
Good Steel Automatic India, Agashi
Ricoh Automatic 21 Jewels
Rs. 2,500
Private Seller
IN
Baume & Mercier Capeland M0A10281 Very good Steel 44mm Automatic India, Hyderabad
Baume & Mercier Capeland Shelby Cobra Limited Edition
Rs. 250,000
Private Seller
IN
Omega Genève 166 0168 Fair Steel 36mm Automatic India, Mumbai
Omega Geneve Automatic Caliber 1012 Blue Dial Swiss
Rs. 45,946
Private Seller
IN
Omega Seamaster Fair 25mm Automatic India, Mumbai
Omega Seamaster Cosmic
Rs. 30,631
Private Seller
IN
Panerai 3646 Very good Steel 47mm
TOP
Panerai 1944 Rolex Panerai Ref 3646 Cali Dial
Rs. 9,572,138
Professional dealer
16
US
Oris Aquis Date 01 733 7730 4152-07 8 24 05PEB Unworn Steel 43.5mm Automatic India, chelakara
Oris Aquis Date
Rs. 90,000
Private Seller
IN
Tissot Seastar 1000 Tissot seastar Very good Automatic India, Pune
Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80
Rs. 42,000
Private Seller
IN
Seiko 5 7S26 Very good Steel 36MMmm Automatic India, NEW DELHI
Seiko 5
Rs. 4,978
Private Seller
IN
Omega Seamaster Very good Gold/Steel 4mm Automatic India, kolkata
Omega 501 Seamaster Gold plated Automatic
Rs. 600,000
Private Seller
IN
Omega Seamaster 14390-7SC Good Steel 35.3mm Manual winding India, Mumbai
Omega Seamaster
Rs. 67,118
Private Seller
IN
Technos 10650 Unworn Steel 36mm Automatic India, Thane
Technos Automatic
Rs. 17,613
Private Seller
IN
Omega Constellation 12021000 Good Gold/Steel Automatic India, Faridabad
Omega Constellation
Rs. 100,000
Private Seller
IN
Tudor Black Bay 79230R Very good Steel 41mm Automatic India, Jalandhar
Tudor Black Bay
Rs. 223,117
Private Seller
IN
Breitling Superocean Heritage AB2030121B1S1 Very good Steel 44mm Automatic India
Breitling Superocean Héritage
Rs. 263,356
Private Seller
IN
Breitling Avenger Skyland A13380 Good Steel 45mm Automatic India, Chennai
Breitling Avenger Skyland Limited Edition
Rs. 350,000
Private Seller
IN
Omega Seamaster 165.003 Good Steel 35mm Manual winding India, Mumbai
Omega Seamaster
Rs. 105,000
Private Seller
IN
Carl F. Bucherer Patravi 00.10632.23.33.01 Very good Steel 44.6mm Automatic India, Hyderabad
Carl F. Bucherer Patravi
Rs. 230,000
Private Seller
IN
Rado Original R12637163 Unworn Steel 140mm Automatic India, Bangalore
Rado Original
Rs. 80,000
Private Seller
IN
4965/4999 Unworn 45mm Automatic India, Bangalore
Bernhard H Mayer Nauticus Austro
Rs. 60,000
Private Seller
IN
Rolex Oyster Precision 6426 Fair Steel 34mm Manual winding India, Ajmer
Rolex Oyster Precision
Rs. 240,000
Private Seller
IN
Panerai Luminor Due PAM 00943 Unworn Steel 45mm Automatic India, Bangalore
Panerai Luminor Due
Rs. 585,000
Private Seller
IN
Seiko 5 Very good Steel 36mm Automatic India, Mumbai
Seiko 5 Automatic watch~ Most beautiful changing shades dial~...
Rs. 22,897
Private Seller
IN
Citizen 8110A Good Steel 38mm Automatic India, Mumbai
Citizen Chronograph 8110A (Bullhead)
Rs. 38,289
Private Seller
IN
Omega Genève 166099 Very good Steel 35mm Automatic India, Kolkata
Omega Genève
Rs. 54,035
Private Seller
IN
Eterna 5144157 Very good Steel 35mm Manual winding India, MUMBAI
Eterna Vision
Rs. 15,000
Private Seller
IN
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 CAR2110.FC6266 Very good Steel Automatic India, Greater Mumbai
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887
Rs. 135,000
Private Seller
IN
Oris Divers Sixty Five 01 733 7720 4055-07 8 21 18 Very good Steel 40mm Automatic India, navi mumbai
Oris Divers Sixty Five bronze bezel
Rs. 125,000
Private Seller
IN
Rado Original R12413323 Unworn 35mm Automatic India, Manjeri
Rado Diastar
Rs. 59,900
Private Seller
IN
Mido Ocean Star 633-8075 Fair Steel 38mm Automatic India, Mumbai
Mido 1918 Jubilee Ocean Star
Rs. 26,419
Private Seller
IN
Hamilton Railroad H40515731 Unworn Steel 42mm Automatic India, Mumbai
Hamilton Railroad
Rs. 68,919
Private Seller
IN
Rado Fair Steel 41mm Automatic India, Mumbai
Rado NCC 101 Vintage Automatic
Rs. 26,802
Private Seller
IN
Rado HyperChrome R32171155 Very good Ceramic 46mm Automatic India, Pune
Rado HyperChrome
Rs. 180,000
Private Seller
IN
Rado Original R12416633 Very good Automatic India, Ahmedabad
Rado Original
Rs. 39,999
Private Seller
IN
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 CV2A12 Very good Steel 43mm Automatic India, noida
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16
Rs. 193,000
Private Seller
IN
Unworn Steel Automatic India, Basudevpur
CHAIROS Crusader
Rs. 25,000
Private Seller
IN
Omega Seamaster 14775 Very good Steel 34.5mm Manual winding India, Mumbai
Omega Seamaster
Rs. 71,593
Private Seller
IN
Baume & Mercier 65671 Good Steel Automatic India, jamnagar
Baume & Mercier Geneve 1830
Rs. 160,812
Private Seller
IN
Breitling Superocean 44 A17367021I1S2 Very good Steel 44mm Automatic India, Gurgaon
Breitling Superocean 44
Rs. 250,000
Private Seller
IN
Seiko 190298 Good Steel 35mm Automatic India, Mumbai
Seiko Vintage Vintage Seiko day date Bell matic stainless...
Rs. 38,289
Private Seller
IN

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


This page contains information about:


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.