Tudor Black Bay 54

As of 2023, the 37-mm Black Bay Fifty-Four is the latest model in Tudor's bestselling collection, the Heritage Black Bay. The luxury watch brand launched the Black Bay series in 2012 with the first Black Bay ref. 79230R. This 41-mm watch featured a burgundy bezel, and was an instant hit. The resounding success prompted Tudor to introduce numerous versions with a case size of 41 mm in quick succession.

However, those with smaller wrists were not entirely taken with the many 41-mm iterations, and calls for a more compact version grew louder. Tudor responded in 2018 by shaving off 2 mm from the original's diameter and streamlining the case, resulting in the Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Although fans were pleased with this version, Tudor pared down the prototype even further and released the Black Bay Fifty-Four. This model pays tribute to the reference number 7922 from 1954, which also measured 37 mm across.

While the Black Bay Fifty-Four has inherited numerous design details from its famous role model, it uses state-of-the-art materials and manufacturing techniques. For example, the watch is powered by the in-house caliber MT5400, protected by a sapphire crystal, and offers water resistance to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft). Overall, the Fifty-Four is a fantastic tool watch in an elegant facade.

The 37-mm stainless steel case of the Black Bay Fifty-Four is around 11.2 mm thick and measures 46 mm lug-to-lug. The watch features a screw-down case back and crown, as well as a domed sapphire crystal.

The dial and hands on the new Tudor Black Bay 54 are similar to the other Black Bay versions, but with some tweaks. In keeping with the original from 1954, the snowflake second hand was swapped out for a lollipop hand. The snowflake design was retained for the hour hand, which Tudor actually only introduced at the end of the 1960s. Like the ref. 7922, which had a Mercedes hour hand, the Black Bay Fifty-Four has a rotatable bezel with an aluminum inlay that lacks a minute scale for the first quarter of an hour.

A typical feature of most variants in the Black Bay series is a matte black and slightly domed dial. As with the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, the Fifty-Four's round hour markers, inscriptions, and chapter ring are in "gilt tone," which is a soft gold. The watch's hands share this color and thus harmonize nicely with the dial.

Inside the case, you'll find Tudor's in-house caliber MT5400. This movement doesn't have a date complication, but offers COSC certification and a 70-hour power reserve. The balance oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vph. It also boasts an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring and an open-worked monobloc rotor made of tungsten.

As for bands, you have the choice between a three-piece link Oyster bracelet with faux rivets on the outer links (ref. M79000N-0001) and a rubber strap. Both use Tudor's T-Fit clasp, which offers an integrated extension system, allowing the wearer to adjust the bracelet by a total of 8 mm in five increments.

As of August 2023, you can buy the Black Bay Fifty-Four on Chrono24 for around 4,500 USD. The version on the rubber strap (ref. M79000N-0002) demands similar prices. This means that market prices are currently above Tudor's list prices of 3,850 and 3,625 USD, respectively.