Tudor North Flag

The North Flag debuted in 2015 as the first Tudor watch to use a movement developed entirely in-house. The caliber, known as the MT5621, has a 70-hour power reserve and comes with chronometer certification from the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

This 40-mm stainless steel watch belongs to the manufacturer's group of tool watches, which also includes the Pelagos diving watch. The Oyster Prince served as one of the inspirations for the Tudor North Flag. This historic watch accompanied the members of the Royal Navy on their expedition to Greenland in the 1950s. Even then, these automatic watches were proven to have impressive accuracy and reliability.

In the tradition of those expedition watches, the Tudor North Flag strives to meet the requirements of a scientific instrument. The design feels technical and modern with a retro flair. The integrated band feels especially reminiscent of classic sports watches from the 1970s.

Prices for a Tudor North Flag begin around 3,600 USD for a model on a black leather strap. The version on a steel bracelet is slightly more expensive at about 4,000 USD. You can save 200 to 350 USD by purchasing a pre-owned watch.

This demonstrates what a sound investment this functional timepiece is. Being the first Tudor watch with an in-house movement also means that their demand and value could increase in the future. Another factor contributing to its solid prices is that Tudor ceased production of the North Flag in 2021, thus the number of North Flags available on the market will fall over time. Since the announcement of the model's retirement, its market value has tended strongly upward.

In addition to the Oyster Prince expedition watch from the 1950s, several other watches from Tudor and Rolex have impacted the design of the North Flag. For example, there are similarities with the rare Tudor Ranger II from the 1970s. Like the North Flag, it has an integrated band and features a bar-shaped minute hand and an arrow-shaped hour hand. The shape of the case is also very similar. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date ref. 1530 also comes from the 70s and features an integrated band. Collectors consider this rare watch an insider tip, though its price remains reasonable.

The main features of the Tudor North Flag are its entirely satin-brushed case and a sapphire display back, through which you can see the movement at work. When looking at the caliber, you will notice that Tudor put minimal finishing on the MT5621. Instead, functionality is paramount. Nevertheless, the winding rotor is skeletonized, and you can watch the balance wheel, which is straddled by a bridge, as it swings. Of course, Tudor also uses sapphire crystal on the front to protect the display. To keep the crystal in place, the Genevan manufacturer decided on a double bezel made of stainless steel and ceramic that enhances the timepiece's technical look.

Large Arabic numerals at 6 and 12 o'clock dominate the matte black dial, while the other indices are bar-shaped. A date display at 3 sits opposite the power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock. The indicator's scale is yellow, as are the minute track and second hand. White luminous material coats the hands and indices and glows blue in the dark.

In terms of bands, you can choose between stainless steel and leather. The latter has an inner yellow lining and yellow stitching, highlighting the watch's sporty feel. Fold-over safety clasps make sure that both versions of this tool watch stay firmly on your wrist.